On this planet, undoubtedly, there are places that can shock you. Some thanks to their natural beauty, others because of their tremendous human development and others because of their “heavy” history. Jerusalem, is one of these places, which have been prominent and attracted like a magnet to human activity throughout history (and prehistory). It transcended the boundaries of the physical, and became the capital of spirituality and God, not for one but for three religions. Even for a non-believer, a walk through the narrow streets of Jerusalem creates a lump in the chest. You feel all around you the energy, the passion of human faith and the power of an Idea. Jerusalem is the perfect destination to understand how people, despite their differences in terms of religion, are fighting a common struggle: the search for inner peace and the belief that life holds something deeper, something better.
Whether you are a Christian who wants to visit the tomb of Christ, a Muslim who wants to visit the Dome of the Rock, a Jew who dreams of seeing the Wall of Tears, or a simple explorer of the human soul, a trip to Jerusalem will be unforgettable for a lifetime.
A brief history of Jerusalem.
The deep history of Jerusalem begins with the first settlements appearing in the Bronze Age, in 3500 BC. In 1000 BC King David conquered Jerusalem and made it the capital of the kingdom of the Jews. A few years later, the famous King Solomon, son of David, would build his famous temple.
The Babylonians took the capital in 586 BC, destroying the temple and forcing the Jews into exile. Half a century later, the Persian King Cyrus II would allow the Jews to return and rebuild their temple.
Alexander the Great captured Jerusalem in 332 BC, and in the following centuries, the city would change hands between many conquerors including the Romans, Persians, Arabs, Seljuk Turks and Crusaders.
The historical moments that stand out next begin with the reconstruction of the Jewish holy temple by King Herod in 37 BC. Jesus was crucified in Jerusalem around 30 AD. Around 70 BC the Romans will once again destroy Solomon’s temple, part of whose walls survive to this day and is the holiest site of the Jews. In 632 BC, the prophet of Islam Muhammad died in Jerusalem and is believed to have ascended from there to heaven.
From 1516 AD to 1917 AD Jerusalem belonged to the Ottoman Empire. After the end of the First World War, Great Britain occupied the Holy City, which then belonged to Palestine, and controlled it until 1948. After the end of World War II, the major powers will cede Jerusalem to the newly established State of Israel. For 20 years, the city would be divided between Israel and Jordan, until the Israelis took all of Jerusalem after the Six Day War.
From the creation of Israel to the present day, there has been great tension with Palestine. Both states recognize Jerusalem as their capital, and armed confrontations are frequent. The historical, political and religious power of Jerusalem will no doubt continue to play a prominent role and create vehemence in the years to come.
How to get to Jerusalem?
Visiting Jerusalem is easy and safe. There is no need to depend on a tourist agency. Organizing the trip yourself will give you more freedom of movement, and time to explore the places you want without restrictions.
You will most likely arrive in Israel from the capital, the hyper-developed Tel Aviv. If you have free time, I would suggest spending a few days there, as the city has a lot to offer. Be prepared to dig pretty deep into your pockets, however, as Tel Aviv is one of the most expensive cities in the world.
You can take the train that departs daily, direct to Jerusalem, from Ben Gurion Airport. The trains are regular, starting at 6am to 9pm from Sunday to Friday. The journey takes approximately one hour and costs NIS 22 (approximately 6$).
In addition to the train, you can use the bus option. Buses depart either from Arlozrov Terminal (line 480 from 6.30am to 3.00pm) or from Tel Aviv Central Station (line 405 from 6.00am to 12am). The cost is 16NIS (about 4$) for a one-hour journey.
Don’t forget that Israelis celebrate Shabbat from Friday afternoon to Saturday night, and everything in the country including public transport is closed.
Where to stay in Jerusalem?
Jerusalem is mainly divided into the historic center, where all the monuments are located, and the modern city. The distance between the two is quite large. If you want to experience the unique, historical pulse and wander more easily through the narrow streets, I would suggest staying in the old city. If you need more amenities, shopping and the features of a modern metropolis it is better to stay in the new town.
If you decide to stay in the modern center and the new city I would suggest staying near Zion Square and King David main street. That’s where most of the restaurants, shopping, nightlife as well as beautiful architecture are located.
The old city is divided into four neighborhoods: the Christian, Jewish, Muslim and Armenian. You can choose to stay in any of them and there are accommodations in all price ranges. However, don’t expect to find luxurious rooms and awesome amenities. You’ll find hostels, guesthouses and rooms with basic amenities and a unique location in the center of the action. Some of the accommodations have a deep religious character, so it’s a good idea to know about this in advance.
The best way to search for room availability, deals and the information you need is through booking.com. Take some time to find the accommodation that will meet your needs at the best price.
What to see in Jerusalem?
Jerusalem has a tremendous amount of things to do and sights to see. I’d recommend that you dedicate at least three days to your trip there, so that you have the time necessary to absorb the diverse cultures and “feel” the history. Below I’ll give you what I consider to be the most important stops, which left me amazed and I believe will impress you in the same way.
Christian neighborhood.
For Christian pilgrims, the church of the Holy Sepulchre is the holiest place in Jerusalem, and perhaps in the world. It is believed to have been built on the site where Christ was crucified, and the site for the church was chosen by St. Helena, the mother of the Byzantine emperor Constantine the Great. It is also the site of Christ’s tomb, where you will find crowds of pilgrims from every corner of the world flocking to it daily. The emotions in the church of the Holy Sepulchre are many, and you will quickly feel the weight of the pain and faith from people of every race and color who dreamed of being in it. The church is the last stop on Via Dolorosa, the road that Christ walked before his crucifixion in Jerusalem. You can walk the Via Dolorosa alone, or every Friday you can follow the Italian Franciscan monks who make the route. The beginning of Via Dolorosa is at the junction with Al-Wad road, and continues with 14 stops to the church of the Holy Sepulchre. Of particular interest in the Christian neighborhood is the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer with a beautiful view from the bell tower, and the oldest church in Jerusalem, that of John the Baptist.
Muslim neighborhood.
The Muslim neighborhood runs from the Damascus Gate to the northeastern part of the old city. In its narrow alleys you will find many markets, textiles, spices, food and souvenirs such as the famous Khan Al-Sultan commercial shop. Nearby, you will find the church of St. Anne built over the house of Mary’s parents as well as the Bethesda pool.
Jewish neighborhood.
The Jewish neighborhood starts at the Zion Gate and extends to the Western Wall Square. The Western Wall, or Wall of Tears, is the most important religious monument of the Jews. It is the only surviving part of the first Holy Temple in Jerusalem. Every day, crowds of Jews gather in front of the Wall and burst into tears making the characteristic back and forth motion with their heads. The sight is unique, especially on Friday night during Shabbat. There you will also find the tunnels that take you under the city, at the level where Jerusalem was originally built. Rehov HaYehudim Street, is the main street in the Jewish neighborhood with the most traffic. An impressive synagogue is the Hurva synagogue where you can get a good idea of Jewish customs.
Armenian neighborhood.
The Armenian neighborhood is great if you want to avoid the big crowds for a while, and wander more comfortably through the small streets of the old city. Major points of interest are the Orthodox Cathedral of St. James and the Syrian Orthodox Church of St. Mark with its unique architecture.
Mount of Olives.
A special and impressive place to “soak up” history and feel part of the biblical world is the Mount of Olives. You can get there easily by walking a few minutes from the historic center. At the top of the hill is the Church of the Ascension, the place where it is believed that Jesus ascended to heaven after His crucifixion and resurrection. From there you will enjoy the most beautiful view of Jerusalem. Going down the hill, you will find the Pater Noster Church, where according to tradition Jesus counseled his disciples for the last time. The Garden of Gethsemane where Jesus was arrested is another place of great interest. Nearby is the famous Church of All Nations and the tomb of the Virgin Mary. The olive trees found in the area are among the oldest in the world, with some of them identified after scientific studies as being around 900 years old.
Mount Temple (Haram Al Sharif).
The Μount Temple, is one of the holiest places on earth. For both Jews and Muslims, it is the place where Abraham offered his son as a sacrifice to God. It was here that Solomon built the temple for the Ark of the Covenant, the sacred box containing the stone tablets of the 10 Commandments and sacred objects of the Israelites. In the same place, it is believed that the Prophet Muhammad was taken up to heaven after preaching Islam. In the large square of Haram Al Sharif is the Dome of the Rock, perhaps the most iconic place in Jerusalem with its blue mosque and golden dome. There is also the Al-Aqsa Mosque, the third holiest place for Muslims after Mecca and Medina.
Mount Zion.
Just outside the Old City, is Mount Zion, another part of Jerusalem full of history and interesting monuments. There is the tomb of King David, and near it is the room where the Last Supper took place. On Mount Zion, you will also find the Church of St. Peter, at the place where the disciple Peter denied Christ. An extremely important church is that of the Assumption, the site where the Virgin Mary died.
Mahane Yehuda market.
If you want to leave history and religious monuments behind for a while, a special place that is bursting with aromas, colors and life is the Mahane Yehuda market. It’s Jerusalem’s largest market, where you’ll find a multitude of vendors offering fruit, vegetables, traditional foods, clothing, antiques and artwork. Take your time to wander its streets and “browse” the traffic and products. Don’t forget to bargain at original prices, and hunt for the best deals.
What to eat in Jerusalem?
The walking, the history and the intense emotions will surely whet your appetite eventually. You’re lucky because you’re in a city with awesome flavors and diverse cuisines. In my opinion though, there are some foods you shouldn’t miss.
Hummus, is a dish that I believe you should eat every day in Jerusalem. It’s cheap, tasty and healthy (chickpea and olive oil based) and you can find it in almost every restaurant in Jerusalem. Accompany it with tasty falafel and Israeli salad which is very reminiscent of Greek salad. Also similar to the Greek pita gyro is the Shawarma which can contain beef or lamb gyro, tabbouleh, tahini, tomato and other vegetables. Also a unique dip to accompany your freshly baked pita is Baba Ghanooj, a delectable dish made from roasted eggplant and olive oil.
Throughout the streets of Jerusalem you will find a multitude of syrupy pastries and pans of fresh delicacies such as baklava and halvah. My favorite dessert, which I picked out and ate every day during my visit, was the Knefeh. The addictive sweet is made with a base of cantaloupe, a cream cheese dipped in syrup and pistachio crumbles.
Jerusalem is a unique destination that has something special to offer everyone. Take with you a thirst for history, respect and curiosity for the religions that have influenced billions of people. It is no coincidence that Jerusalem has been the center of spirituality. Perhaps there you will find your own answers to the questions that have plagued the human soul throughout history.
