The history and interesting information about Machu Picchu.
It was 1911 when American Hiram Bingham, described by many as the real life Indiana Jones, was exploring the mountain rainforests of Peru. He was chasing a legend that an entire city lay hidden somewhere in the Peruvian Andes.
After receiving a tip from locals, he decided to climb the Urubamba gorge. He later writes, about how he set out to cross dense rainforest, surrounded by high snow-capped peaks, with the sound of the river crossing the canyon 700 meters below. Struggling with altitude sickness, he continued to climb this incredible landscape until he saw with his own eyes a sight that would surely take his breath away. A labyrinth of ancient walls, ruins of houses, palaces, temples and giant stones elaborately placed in the most unlikely places. The more Bingham and his team explored the area, the more they realized that these were perhaps the largest and most important ruins discovered in South America.
Indeed, the ruins they discovered were the remains of a great civilization, an empire that stretched across South America and was known in history as the “Incas.” For almost four centuries after the Spanish invasion of Peru, this unique settlement had remained abandoned, like a well-kept secret of another age. Today it is one of the most recognizable and unique places in the world, known as Machu Picchu.
Machu Picchu, to this day, is one of the greatest mysteries of mankind. The giant stones used to build the settlements come from a nearby mountain, tens of kilometers away. The Incas did not use wheels, animals or metal tools, and the short span of their empire cannot explain how they transported this load over such a long distance. They were such skilled craftsmen that by artfully laying one stone on top of another, and without any other additional material, they created structures that withstood the great seismic activity of the region, and did not allow a gap between the stones for even a pin!
Still, we do not know what the real purpose of Machu Picchu was. As it turns out, Machu Picchu was not a city like the rest of the Incas. Difficult access, scarce arable land and a limited number of dwellings reduce this possibility. Most researchers believe that the Incas used this area as a place of worship and as an astronomical centre. In addition to being great craftsmen, formidable farmers and warriors, the Incas possessed unique astronomical knowledge. An example is the sacred Intihuantana stone where twice a year, at equinox, the sun’s rays fall exactly vertically and cause the lack of shadow. Another mystery as to how the inhabitants of this great civilization knew this phenomenon.
Today, Machu Picchu is Peru’s most visited monument with more than 600 thousand visitors arriving in the rugged region every year.
How to get to Machu Picchu.
The capital and most important centre of the Inca Empire was the city of Cusco. Today, the beautiful and picturesque city of Cusco is usually the starting point for visitors who aspire to reach Machu Picchu.
There are a limited number of people who can visit Machu Picchu on a daily basis. A thousand tickets are available daily online, and reservations usually sell out several weeks in advance of each date. An additional one thousand tickets are available daily at the entrance to the monument, but due to the high demand and the queues that form each morning, there is a chance that visitors may not be able to get their tickets and have to wait at the site for an extra day.
The easiest and most common way that travelers usually choose to reach Machu Picchu is by train, which departs daily, or a private bus provided by the countless travel agencies in the area. The train follows a beautiful route through the sacred Inca Valley, and offers spectacular views as both sides have large glass windows. However, it is also the most expensive option as the cheapest tickets start at 100 euros and can go up to 500 euros! Furthermore, you need to book your seat several days/weeks in advance as tickets sell out quickly, especially during the summer months. Transfer with a travel agency is much cheaper and is around 50-70 euros, including the guide. The price does not include the entrance fee to Machu Picchu, which is around 40 euros.
For the more adventurous travellers, there are different routes you can choose and walk to Machu Picchu. The most famous of these is the Inca Trail, where you can only walk it with a guide after booking well in advance. Its cost due to its high demand is however quite high. An alternative and less busy route, which I ended up choosing, is the Salkantay trek. On this four-day trek, which you can follow alone without the need for a guide, you will pass by the imposing homonymous mountain of Salkantay. During these 4 days you will find yourself in completely different natural landscapes (from snow-capped mountains to dense jungle), you will discover Inca monuments and ruins and with a little luck you will see the great biodiversity of the region. Most importantly, you will build the excitement and anticipation to finish your trek at the wonder of Machu Picchu. The Salkantay trail could be described as moderately difficult, with an average altitude of about 3000 meters. At the predetermined places where you can stay overnight, you will find accommodation and food options as well as meet interesting fellow trekkers from all over the world. Below I’ll outline what you can expect on each day of this adventure, and how you can best prepare for it.
Day one of the Salkantay trek: From Cusco to Soraypampa.
The first day of the trek started with an early morning wake-up call in Cusco. At around 05.00 am the collectivos, mini-vans, depart from the relevant station to Mollepata, the village that is the start of the trek. On Google maps there is a clear address to find these collectivos. After 2-3 hours of driving you will arrive at this first destination, where you will have to pay for the entrance to the national park (cost 8 euros). From there, it is easy to find the road to follow for the hike.
The first day is relatively easy, with little elevation variation and a well-marked road. After 2-3 hours of walking, and crossing beautiful scenery next to a small stream, you will arrive at the first stop of the day, Soraypampa. Soraypampa is not a village, but more of an established place with various camping and accommodation options, at an altitude of 3900 meters with beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. Already the scenery made you feel like you were in a secluded and special place.
If you wish to camp you will find some places that provide a tent, mattress and sleeping bag for about 5 euros. There is the option of shared rooms for around 7 euros, while private little houses can be rented for one night from around 12 to 25 euros per person.
I and three other friends left our backpacks in our room, and after a lunch of sandwiches we had prepared the day before, we decided to visit the nearby Humantay Lake. After about an hour of steep climbing we faced the crystal clear waters of the impressive lake.
Usually Lake Humantay is a famous attraction for many visitors who take day trips with an agency from Cusco. We, however, had the opportunity to enjoy it later in the afternoon, when the hordes of tourists had already left. The four of us friends sat alone and undisturbed on the shore of the lake and for several minutes we were stunned by the beauty of the landscape. The snow-capped mountain stood imposing against the green lake, and a multitude of large birds flew much higher above our heads. The lake sits at 4200 meters, an altitude that literally takes your breath away. Everything looked so magical that I felt the need to dive into the icy waters of the lake.
After this unforgettable plunge, which quickly brought me back to reality, I wanted to climb the adjacent hill and enjoy the view from the other side of the valley for a while. I climbed for a few minutes and reached the narrow lane that led closer and closer to the towering and icy Humantay Mountain. It was probably the most beautiful thing I have ever seen in my life. On one side, waterfalls cascading down the distant mountains and forming rivers in the green valley. On the other, the view of the crystal clear lake that looked more like a large artisan pool. And in the middle, the mountain of Humantay, like a painting we all have in a corner of our home. The clouds seemed to be a stone’s throw away, and if I stretched my arm a little I could reach them. The icing on the cake was a huge condor that flew very close to me, a beautiful and rare bird that for years of traveling in South America I had wanted to meet.
I stayed there, stunned in the same spot for hours. I felt full of life, so happy to have had the luck and the will to put myself in this incredible place. Four years of travel and hardship would have been worth it just for this moment. Have you ever felt so full of emotion that even if your life’s journey ended the next minute you wouldn’t care? How you finally got to know with your eyes, and more importantly your soul, the true beauty of this world, and all the fears, worries and drama you’ve built up seem so small and meaningless now? If the answer is no, I suggest you get out there and go after it. I can’t imagine a better gift you could give yourself.
Just before sunset I returned to the guest room. In a small house next door, a local woman prepared dinner and shared stories of her adventurous life with us. We ate the hot soup and went back to the room early to rest. The temperature at night was very low, but the warm blankets and the anticipation of the next day helped us fall into a deep sleep.
Day two of the Salkantay trek: From Soraypampa to Chaullay.
The second day of the trek is by far the most difficult. On the first part of the trail you will have to climb a total of 750 meters, reaching 4700 meters and very close to the imposing Mount Salkantay. The icy landscape of the summit will give way in the day to lush green plains, as to reach Chaullay and the next overnight campsite you will have to descend about 1500 metres! The total hike will take 7-10 hours, depending on your physical condition.
As we had a long day ahead of us, an early morning wake up call was a must. To combat altitude sickness, it was definitely helpful to start the day with a coca leaf tea. Coca leaves are perfectly legal, and have been the main agricultural occupation for thousands of years for much of the population in Peru and Bolivia. In addition to being a great help with altitude problems, they are rich in vitamins and nutrients, provide energy and have a powerful antidepressant effect. The Incas considered it a sacred plant and used it in their daily life to accomplish all the iconic works throughout their history. It is scientifically proven to have no toxicity or addictive effects. Unfortunately, however, the association of coca leaves with the production of cocaine (which is a complicated process using many harmful chemicals such as ammonia and lime) stopped further research and uses by western medicine. Another unfortunate example where scientific knowledge and medicine rejected the power of natural products, and turned to the use of artificial pharmaceutical preparations.
The hike started at 7am, and after about 4 hours of grueling climbing I made it to the top of the day. An eerie but charming landscape surrounded me, with clouds and snow-capped peaks covering the sky. It was time to begin the long descent. About 1-2 hours into this hike, the scenery changed dramatically, and dense vegetation adorned the hike. Small hamlets sprang up between the trail, allowing for a break and lunch. The time passed pleasantly and quickly in this beautiful landscape, and within a few hours, the three friends and I arrived quite tired at Chaullay, where we would spend the night.
Accommodation options were plentiful, with the cost for a private room for two people at around 7 euros per person. Dinner would cost but about 4 euros. A hot bath was also provided for an extra 3 euros, and even the option of wifi for an extra 3 or so euros. The internet, however, and the direct connection to the outside world, seemed like something I certainly wouldn’t want in this isolated little village in the Peruvian Andes. Besides, there was no better entertainment for the afternoon than lying on the bed of the small hut and watching dozens of horses pass in front of the door with the local riders.
Day three of the Salkantay trek: from Chaullay to Lucmabamba.
The third day of the Salkantay trek is considerably easier than the previous one, as you have to traverse a total of 18 kilometers with a steady descent of a total 800 meters. The trail largely follows the river and offers beautiful natural scenery with diverse crops of granadilla (probably my favorite fruit in South America).
Approaching Lucmabamba, you will feel lost among the dense coffee plantations, and if you are a little lucky and observant you will enjoy the sight of many hummingbirds and colourful butterflies. In the small village of Lucmabamba, there are several overnight accommodation options, mostly in coffee farms, where you can camp or find rooms at similar prices to the whole route. You don’t need to book your room in advance, as it’s better to choose the place you like best on the spot.
My friends and I chose Lucmabamba lodge and were delighted with the service and the tranquility of the place. A large garden with chickens roaming carefree among the coffee trees was the perfect place to rest from the constant trekking. The cost for a room, dinner and breakfast was only about 12 euros. If you find yourself there, tell the sweet owner hello from George from Greece, she will surely be happy to hear from her previous guests again.
Day four of the Salkantay trek: From Lucmabamba to Mandor, a stone’s throw from Machu Picchu.
The last day of the trek has finally arrived! An early start to enjoy the birdsong in the dense vegetation that will accompany you on this day.
After about 2 hours of walking, you will find yourself at the ruins of Llactapata, an important monument of Inca architecture. This stone structure would have been used by the Incas as a refueling point and also as an overnight stop on their journey to Machu Picchu. Right in front of the ruins, a unique view of Mt Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu is offered. At this spectacular spot, I spent some time admiring the majesty and impressive formation of the two mountains for the first time. The settlement of Machu Picchu, however, is on the other side, and is not visible from this point.
Continuing the relatively easy hike for about two hours you will reach the point where you will need to declare your name, passport and country of origin to enter the Machu Picchu area. Soon, you will find yourself at Hydroelectrica, the place where visitors arriving by train are disembarked. Crowds of vendors of all kinds and travelers from all over the world flood the station. A completely different atmosphere, and the first contact with civilization after four days of serenity on the Salkantay trek.
Usually, visitors choose to spend the last night before visiting Machu Picchu in the village of Aguas Calientes. Although the village is picturesque, with many accommodation and food options, it is nevertheless quite touristy and expensive. We chose to spend the night in the Mandor area, which is a bit more secluded in the green landscape near the entrance to Machu Picchu. The choice proved to be a very successful one, especially when we saw our room at Mandor Lodge. The balcony was smothered in vegetation, with the constant sound of the river in our ears right in front of the guesthouse.
The day of the visit to Machu Picchu.
The big day finally arrived, the day when my lifelong dream of visiting the wonder of Machu Picchu would become a reality.
My ticket, had an entry time of 8am, so I would start from my room at the Mandor around 6am to have enough time available. To reach the entrance point to Machu Picchu, one can pay for the special bus that departs from Aguas Calientes, or one must attempt the steep climb for about an hour up the hundreds of steps near the monument.
After eagerly climbing these steps, I arrived with my friends at the final entry point to the ruins of Machu Picchu. There, we had to wait for a few minutes until the appropriate time indicated on the electronic ticket arrived. A number of visitors without an electronic ticket had already queued up to get theirs. Each ticket allows you to traverse only one of the 4 routes in the settlement and includes climbing one of the three surrounding mountains overlooking the ruins. It’s a good idea to read which route and which mountain you prefer so you’re not disappointed when you arrive at the monument. At the entrance, you can also find a guide who will accompany you to the ruins and explain the history, at a cost of about 20 euros per person.
The time arrived and I passed the checkpoint at the main entrance. Don’t forget your passport, as you will not be allowed to enter! I climbed the last few steps and in a few minutes I saw for the first time the image I had built up in my mind for years. But no fantasy or photograph could compare to the reality. The intricate walls and distinctive ornate settlements spread out before my eyes. Part of them were hidden by thick clouds that added a mysterious atmosphere. Just as impressive as the ruins of Machu Picchu were the surrounding mountains. In very strange formations they seemed alive, ready to talk to you. You quickly understand why the Incas chose this unique place on earth to build their sacred city.
The clouds quickly cleared away to reveal the full splendour of Machu Picchu. We began walking along the route allotted to our ticket, and observed each Inca building and temple more carefully. You have 2 hours to complete the route and reach the start of the mountain where you can climb and see the view. Take your time along the monument, and ignore the guards who will constantly be urging you on. Don’t forget that you can’t turn back on the trail, so it’s a good idea to enjoy every step.
On the mountain you will have an extra two hours available to admire the beauty of the scenery. I think it was enough time, and it gave our group the opportunity to share as much historical and architectural knowledge as we each have about the wonder of Machu Picchu as we observed it from above.
It was another destination that is hard to forget or can be compared to any other place in the world. Yes, Machu Picchu is very touristy, you will see hordes of visitors of all ages from all over the world, but it is still a sacred place of unparalleled beauty. The Parthenon is also very touristy, but the energy it gives to every visitor is incomparable. Finally, I would add that great destinations become even more unique when you tire yourself out to reach them. In this 5-day adventure, it was confirmed in me once again that the journey is more important than the destination. Each step that brought me closer to Machu Picchu built emotions, memories, friendships and experiences that will stay with me for a lifetime.
